The Makgadikgadi Pans: A Journey to the Edge of Infinity

There’s something otherworldly about standing in the heart of the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans in Botswana. The sheer expanse of flat, shimmering terrain stretches towards the horizon, offering a sense of space unlike anywhere else I’ve ever traveled. This prehistoric lakebed, one of the largest salt flats in the world, has a desolate beauty and a profound, captivating silence.

A Canvas of Salt and Sky

During the dry season, the pans are a dazzling expanse of white salt, stark and almost blindingly bright. The earth cracks beneath your feet as you explore this unique landscape. Sunsets here are spectacular, with a flaming orange and pink sky reflected across the salt-crusted surface.

But as the day ends, the Makgadikgadi unveils its greatest treasure…the night sky. Remote, far from the light pollution of cities, the Makgadikgadi Pans offer one of the most pristine stargazing experiences in the world. Prepare to be dazzled as the Milky Way unfurls in a breathtaking sweep across the inky blackness. You can trace constellations, see planets with remarkable clarity, and perhaps even witness the dance of the Southern Lights if you’re lucky.

 

An Unforgettable Stay with Leroo La Tau

My adventure in the Makgadikgadi was made exceptional by staying at the Leroo La Tau hotel. Not only does it offer luxurious riverside accommodations, but they also orchestrate unforgettable experiences out on the salt pans. Imagine this: a 4×4 drive into the seemingly endless flats, sundowner drinks with pink gin and tonics as the sun dips below the horizon, and a delectable dinner served under a canopy of stars.

The highlight was the overnight stay in specially designed bedding directly under the stars. With comfortable beds and the gentle sounds of the desert night, it was stargazing on another level. Waking up to sunrise over the salt flats was a moment of pure magic. The emotions that well up inside you while witnessing one of the most stunning sunrises will surprise you.

 

The Magic of Emptiness

It’s the sheer emptiness of the Makgadikgadi that sets your soul at ease. There are no crowds, just a wide-open space for contemplation. It’s a reminder of how small we are in the grand scheme of things, yet it brings a sense of peace, not fear.

 

The occasional cry of a nightjar or the eerie howls of distant hyenas only add to the feeling of wildness and connection with nature. When the rains come, the pans transform into a lush haven for migrating flamingos, zebras, and other wildlife, a spectacle in itself, yet the vastness remains, an enduring symbol of Africa’s untamed heart.

 

Tips for Visiting the Makgadikgadi:

  • Consider Leroo La Tau: Their service and expertise elevate the salt pans experience.
  • Go with a reputable tour guide: The area is remote and requires some expertise to navigate.
  • Best time to visit: The dry season (around April to October) offers the most dramatic landscape and best stargazing.
  • Bring the right gear: Sunglasses, sunscreen, hats are crucial. Warm layers for chilly desert nights are also recommended.
  • Cameras and binoculars: Capture those wide vistas and zoom in on the incredible night sky.

The Makgadikgadi Pans are an off-the-beaten-track destination for those seeking something truly different—an escape from the noise of the world and a return to the stillness and awe-inspiring power of nature.

About Ravi

Ravi spent his early life working as a systems engineer and investor, making the world a better place through his knowledge, practical skills and friendships. Now retired, he can devote his time to exploring the world’s beauty, but he still wants to give back.

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